Aside from those attractions listed below, Beijing has hundreds of miles of hutongs (alleys). You’re more likely to get lost than mugged - the hutongs are no more dangerous than the suburbs of a large U.S. city. Just pick a hutong and start walking. You are guaranteed an eye-opening and entertaining experience.

LANDMARKS, MONUMENTS AND HISTORIC SITES OR DISTRICTS

The Great Wall
Built between the fifth century BC and 16th century AD to keep out invaders from the north, the Great Wall is one of the most awesome manmade sights in the world. There are several places to view the wall: The most popular, crowded and touristy is Badaling, about 50 mi/80 km north of Beijing; another is Mutianyu, 90 minutes by car to the northeast, where you can view unrestored sections of the wall, as well as sections reconstructed for tourists. At both spots, visitors can either climb a hill to the wall or ride in a cable car. If you’re a hiking enthusiast or want to have a section of the wall all to yourself, go to Simatai, a two-hour drive northeast of Beijing.

The Great Wall makes a wonderful day trip. Pack a picnic lunch of sandwiches and some water and enjoy the fresh air and beautiful scenery away from the hustle and bustle of Beijing. For those visiting the Badaling section of the wall, combine the trip with a stop at the Ming Tombs.

Ming Tombs
Located about 30 mi/50 km northwest of Beijing, the tombs can be seen in about one hour. Unlike tombs in countries such as Egypt, these are not elaborately decorated inside. The roads leading up to the tombs are guarded by huge stone animals, which are one of the most intriguing aspects of the visit. The only tomb open to the public is that of Emperor Wanli (reigned AD 1573-1620). Displayed in a museum near the underground tomb are valuables that were buried with the emperor and his concubines. The pavilions marking other tombs can be seen from this tomb. Another interesting tomb, Deling, is neither restored nor officially open to the public, but if you can find a driver who knows the place, it’s worth a look. Daily 8:30 am - 5 pm. 30 yuan. Office of Shi San Ling Special Zone, Chang Ping County.

Go by tourist bus, available at hotels, or hire a car and driver for about 600 yuan for the day. Cheap buses to the Great Wall leave from Deshengmen and Dongzhimen bus stations. Daily 8:30 am - 11 pm, but make sure you buy your return ticket by 7 pm. 30 yuan for entrance and tram. Office of Badaling Special Zone, Yan Qing County, phone 6912-1423 or 6912-1737.

Forbidden City
Twenty-four emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties lived in this palace, officially known as the Former Imperial Palace (it’s also known as the Palace Museum). With more than 9,000 rooms and halls, it’s the largest architectural complex in the world. On display are numerous artifacts from the two dynasties, though the most valuable items were taken to Taiwan by the Nationalist government. Renovations began in 1997, but will be conducted in a manner that will not affect access to its various sections. Daily 9 am - 4 pm. 68 yuan plus 20 yuan for a taped audio guide narrated by Roger Moore (well worth it). The entrance is on Changan Street, across the street from Tiananmen Square, under the big painting of Mao Zedong. When exiting from the north gate, Coal Hill (Jing Shan Park) is across the street, which is nice for a stroll. Beijing Palace Museum, phone 6513-1892 or 6513-2255.

Tiananmen Square
Covering about 122 acres/49 hectares, Tiananmen Square is said to have the capacity to hold one million people. On 1 October 1949, Mao Zedong inaugurated the People’s Republic of China in this square; more recently, the square became infamous for the student demonstrations and army crackdown of 1989. Several statues and other points of interest - including Mao’s mausoleum - are in or adjacent to the square. Located in the center of the city, at the front gate to the Forbidden City.

Temple of Heaven (Tiantan)
Built between AD 1406 and AD 1420 to be used by the emperor for ceremonies honoring the god of harvests. The main building, with its three cone-shaped roofs, has become the symbol of Beijing. It was entirely fitted together - not a single nail or peg was used in its construction. The temple’s silhouette was the official symbol for Beijing’s unsuccessful bid for the 2000 Olympic Games. Visit in the early morning to see people practicing tai chi chuan. Daily 6 am - 8:30 pm in summer, 8:30 am - 6 pm in winter. 30 yuan. The entrances are on Tiantan Road and Chongwenmenwai Street, Chongwen District, phone 6702-8866.

The Summer Palace
Built as the summer home for the emperor and his court, the Summer Palace has a lake, gardens, bridges, pavilions, halls and towers fit for a king. It recalls the opulent lifestyle of the privileged few during Qing times. Be on the lookout for the replica of a Mississippi steamboat made of marble, a gift from the Empress Dowager to the Chinese navy in the late 1800s. Daily 8:30 am - 5 pm (last visitors admitted at 4 pm). 35 yuan. The entrance is on Yiheyuan (Summer Palace) Street, Haidian District, phone 6288-1077>.

Yuanming Garden
Lies on the northwestern outskirts of the city, north of Beijing University and only 500m from the Summer Palace. It was built during the Qing Dynasty over a period of 150 years and included three gardens: Yuanming Yuan, Changchun Yuan and Qichun Yuan. They were laid out seperately, yet in a way so that they complement each other harmoniously. The area covered about 340 hectares. The peaks of the Western hills formed the background; the hills and lakes were man-made. Countless springs flowed, feeding small canals winding their way through lovely valleys. White marble bridges spanned the water here and there. Palaces stood amidst emerald green woods; so did halls, pavilions and temples. Some of them linked by covered walkways.

The three-in-one garden was considered a masterpiece of Chinese gardening. In 1860, however, the allied forces of Great Britain and France reduced it to cinders within ten days. After the most valuable treasures had been stolen, the whole complex was turned over to plundering soldiers and finally went up in flames. Only a few scattered ruins of the Xiyang Lou, the European-style Building, can be seen-a portal, a stone turtle, etc.

White Cloud Temple
Also known as Tianchang Temple, is the largest Taoist temple in Beijing and the center of Taoism in north China. No special attire is needed. Daily 8:30 am - 4:30 pm. 10 yuan. 6 Baiyunguan Jie, Xibianmenwai, Xuanwu District, phone 6346-3531.

Temple of the Azure Clouds
Built during the Yuan dynasty (AD 1271-1368), this temple is the most magnificent of the temples in Beijing’s Western Hills. Daily 7:30 am-4:30 pm. 0.50 yuan. Inside Fragrant Hills Park, Haidian District, phone 6259-1155, ext. 7470.

The Drum Tower
A magnificent ancient tower built in AD 1420. You can climb the stairs to the top. Daily 9 am-4 pm. 6 yuan. 9(A) Zhonglouwan, Dongcheng District, phone 6403-5252.

Big Bell Temple
This temple has a bronze bell 21 ft/7 m high, weighing more than 46 tons, which was cast during the reign of Emperor Yong Le (AD 1403-1424). More than 200,000 characters of Buddhist scriptures are engraved on the bell. Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 5 yuan. Beisanhuanxi Road, Haidian District, phone 6255-0843.

Yonghegong Lamasery
Also known as the Lama Temple, this palace is an active Buddhist center. The architecture and ornamentation of the buildings show the influence of Han, Manchu, Mongolian and Tibetan styles. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 10 yuan. 12 Yonghegong St., Dongcheng District, phone 6404-9027.

Miaoying Monastery
Also known as White Dagoba Temple, contains a dagoba, a reliquary for either a part of the Buddha’s body or for an object he touched during his life. The dagoba, a pagoda-like structure, was built by Lamaists from Tibet in AD 1271, when they brought Buddhism to the Han and Mongolian peoples. Daily 9 am - 5:30 pm. 5 yuan. Fuxingmennei Street, Xicheng District, phone 6616-0211.

The Beijing Ancient Observatory
Created with the help of Jesuit missionaries in the 1500s, has a lengthy history spanning three dynasties. Daily 9 am - 11 am, 1 pm - 5:30 pm. 10 yuan. At the southeast corner of the major intersection of Jianguomenwai Street and Second Ring Road, phone 6512-8923.

Temple of the Reclining Buddha
Also known as the Sleeping Buddha Temple, has a spectacular horizontal bronze Buddha that was cast in AD 1320. Daily 7:30 am - 5 pm. 4 yuan. Botanical Garden, Fragrant Hills Park, phone 6259-1561.

Marco Polo Bridge
Marco Polo praised a certain bridge in the 13th century, and ever since it’s been called the Marco Polo Bridge by Western visitors. (The Chinese name is Lugou Bridge.) It’s known for its elegant architecture and the 140 balustrades carved into the shape of lions, no two alike. More significant than Marco Polo’s comment is the shot heard ’round the world - a skirmish here between Chinese and Japanese troops in 1938 led to the Japanese invasion of China and, therefore, the beginning of World War II in Asia. It’s a nice bike ride for those athletically inclined and properly equipped. Daily 7 am - 8 pm. 15 yuan, 2 yuan for students, 10 yuan for expats. 88 Lugouqiaochengbei St., Fengtai District, phone 6389-1485.

Former Residence of Soong Qing Ling
This serene courtyard-home was the residence of the wife of Sun Yat Sen, who is often called the father of the Chinese revolution. (His revolution, which promoted democracy over imperial power, was not officially connected to communism.) Now a museum, the home has been restored to its former glory. Daily 9 am - 4 pm. 10 yuan. 46 Houhaibeiyan, Xicheng District, phone 6404-4205 or 6403-1633.

MUSEUMS

Museum of Chinese History
Located just off the northeast corner of Tiananmen Square, this museum displays more than 9,000 ancient Chinese relics, including bronze pieces dating back 5,000 years. In the same building is the Museum of the Chinese Revolution, which houses cultural artifacts from 1919 to 1949. Tuesday - Sunday 9 am - 3:30 pm. Admission to the Museum of Chinese History is 20 yuan; admission to the Museum of the Chinese Revolution varies according to exhibit. Phone 6512-8986.

Capital Museum (also known as Confucius Temple)
In a former imperial temple and Confucian civil-service university, this was where China’s best and brightest came to serve the state. The names of those that were successful are inscribed on 198 tablets, erected throughout the grounds. The emperor came here at least annually to pay his respects to Confucius and to lecture on proper government. Daily 9 am - 5 pm. 10 yuan. Guozijian Jie, Andingmennei, Dongcheng District, 220 yards/200 meters west of the main entrance to Yonghegong (Lama Temple), phone 6401-2118.

Beijing Museum of Natural History The largest of its kind in China, this museum contains fossils or specimens of almost all plants and animals found in China. Daily 8:30 am - 4 pm. 15 yuan. 126 Tianqiao Nandajie, Chongwen District, phone 6702-4431.

Chinese Geology Museum
Displays minerals, gems and Paleozoic plants and animals. Daily 9 am -4:30 pm. 8 yuan. 15 Yangrou Hutong, Xisi Nandajie, phone 6617-6387.

China Art Gallery
China’s national museum of art has permanent displays of works by Chinese artists and frequent shows by foreign artists. Tuesday - Sunday 9 am - 4 pm. Closed when new exhibits are being mounted. 4 yuan. 1 Wusi Dajie, Wangfujing area, phone 6401-2252.

Chinese Arts and Crafts Gallery
A collection of the traditional arts and crafts of China, including cloisonne, jade carving and lacquerware. Daily 9 am - 4 pm. Northeast side of Fuxingmen overpass, phone 6601-3377, ext. 277.

Contemporary Art Gallery
The national museum for exhibitions of China’s leading contemporary artists. Saturday - Thursday 9 am - 4:30 pm. 50 fen (0.50 yuan). 123 Longfusi St., phone 6401-7659.

Sackler Archaeological Museum
Located at Beijing University. This world-class museum, established in 1992, houses archaeological and artistic objects from the prehistoric era to the Qing dynasty. Access to the museum, which is contained within a traditional Chinese mansion near the western gate of Beijing University, is controlled by guards stationed outside the university gates (because of student demonstrations in the past), but you have only to tell them you’re visiting the museum and show your passport. Besides providing you access to its superb collection, the museum is also a great excuse to see this famous campus. Open daily 9 am - 4:30 pm. 20 yuan. In Zhongguancun, Haidian District, phone 6275-1667.

PARKS, GARDENS AND ZOOS

Beijing Zoo
The zoo is one of the most depressing sights in the city. Some 5,000 animals live there, unfortunately under poor physical conditions - the cages are tiny, the animals underfed and filthy, and the physical structure is dilapidated. The panda house is especially pitiful, although it’s the only place in Beijing to see giant pandas. 3 yuan (includes entrance to several shows inside the park). Daily 7 am - 6 pm in summer, 8 am - 5 pm in winter. 137 Xizhimenwai, Xicheng District, phone 6831-4411.

Blue Zoo Beijing
A US$25 million Sino-New Zealand joint-venture, this international-class aquarium is fairly small but worth a visit, especially for kids. The main attraction is a 140-yard-/130-meter-long moving walkway that swirls around underneath the main tank, with sharks swimming overhead and other creatures finning by. Most kids want at least two passes around the walkway. The Blue Zoo is a bit short on informative displays, but does address such marine issues in China as the damming of the Yangtze River and the slaughter of sharks for shark-fin soup. Daily 9 am - 7 pm. 75 yuan adults, 60 yuan elderly, people with disabilities and students with ID, 30 yuan children, free for children under 3 ft/1 m tall. (Children that short may get in free, but they’ll have to be lifted up to see most exhibits.) South Gate, Workers’ Stadium, South Workers Stadium Road (Gongti Nanlu), Chaoyang District, phone 6593-5263.

The Central Park of Beijing (Beihai Park)
Beihai Park has an 800-year history as the royal garden of the Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. The park is grand and sprawling, with some beautiful plantings, a lake and paddleboats for rent by the hour (10 yuan). Visit at 6 am to see hundreds of people doing tai chi chuan. Daily 6 am - 9 pm in summer, 6:30 am - 9 pm in winter. 50 fen (0.50 yuan). 1 Wenjin St., Xicheng District, phone 6404-0610.

Coal Hill (Jing Shan Park)
Coal Hill was formed from the soil excavated to create the moat around the Forbidden City. Located just north of the Forbidden City, the hill is now a park with the Ten Thousand Springs Pavilion at its summit. Nice flowers in season, good for strolling. Daily 5:30 am - 9:30 pm in summer, 7 am - 7:30 pm in winter. 30 fen (0.33 yuan). Beijing Jingshan Park.

AMUSEMENT OR THEME PARKS

Beijing Amusement Park
In Longtan Park, has live entertainment, rides, a water-screen show (a light show on a screen of water mist), paddleboats, bumper cars and roller coasters. Daily 8:30 am - 5:30 pm. 30 yuan. 1 Zuoanmennei Dajie, Chongwen District, phone 6711-1155.

Miraculous Amusement Palace
Wax exhibitions and scenery depict episodes from the famous Chinese story A Journey to the West, featuring the monk, the pig, the monkey and the warrior. Monday - Friday 8 am - 1 pm, Saturday and Sunday 7 am - 8 pm. 30 yuan. Tuanjiehu Beikou (north corner) inside Chaoyang Park, northeast of Tiananmen in Chaoyang District, phone 6506-6382.

Beijing Recreation Center
Watery fun including a wave pool, simulated river, three slides and a fast slippery dip (a steep water slide). A sports complex provides bowling, squash, tennis, roller-skating, disco dancing, billiards and a sauna. Daily 9:30 am - midnight. Entrance fee (ride tickets not included): 10 yuan. Beisihuanzhong Road, Andingmenwai (near the eastern gate of the Asian Games Village), phone 6499-3434.

SELF-GUIDED WALKING TOURS

Any hutong (alley) outside of the city center affords a glimpse of China before it became a showcase for concrete and steel manufacturers. The areas in which the traditional courtyard homes (that form the alleys) are most plentiful are near the Forbidden City, going north towards the Second Ring Road at Andingmen. The alleys are fine for exploration, but the courtyards themselves are private. Remember to bring your hotel card with the name in Chinese in case you get lost and need directions back.

The Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and the Summer Palace lend themselves easily to self-guided walking tours. Take a taxi to the location, pay at the entrance, find a map of the attraction (usually near the entrance) and then wander to your heart’s content. The Forbidden City has a self-guided taped tour, with Roger Moore narrating (included in the price of admission). The Summer Palace offers The Long Corridor, a covered 2,275-ft/700-m wooden walkway along the lake.

The book Beijing Walks by Don J. Cohn and Zhang Jingqing is an excellent resource for those who want to see Beijing on their own. The book has six daylong walks that cover many of the major attractions as well as some of the lesser-known neighborhoods. Available at some hotel bookstores in Beijing, it’s published by Odyssey in Hong Kong.

Qianmen (Dazhalan Area). Qianmen means front gate, and the Qianmen area is named for the front gate of the old walled city of Beijing, which was left standing after the walls themselves were demolished. In Ming times, establishments banned within city walls - including theaters, brothels and certain shops and restaurants - found a niche there. Not only was Qianmen the red-light district during the Ming Dynasty, it also served as the route for the emperor’s yearly procession from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven to pray for a good harvest.

The opportunity for a glimpse of authentic Beijing, just as it was during Ming times, is what draws foreign visitors (some shops have been in existence since the Ming era). Today, the area is a busy shopping district for specialized goods. The imposing Qianmen Gate is itself worth seeing. Just south of Tiananmen Square.

LOCAL TOURS

If you haven’t arranged a tour of Beijing before departing for China, contact your hotel travel desk or the China International Travel Service (CITS) desk at any major hotel. In addition to tours of the individual sights (Great Wall, Forbidden City, Summer Palace, Temple of Heaven, Ming Tombs, Lama Temple), they offer two daylong tours: a tour of the Great Wall and the Ming Tombs, from 9 am - 6 pm (includes three hours of driving time); and a city tour including Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and the Summer Palace, which lasts from 10 am - 6 pm (includes two hours of driving time). Day tours cost about 350 yuan.